![]() I don’t think I’m alone in that-there’s a reason that brands like Toteme, The Row, Tove, and Maria McManus, who focus on beautifully cut jackets and trousers with a bit of sophisticated spunk, all have little cults forming around them-and frankly, it’s about time designers treat that woman as a bit more of a heroine. Stuff that may not even telegraph in a selfie. But lately, when I’m thinking about what I want to present to the world and how I want clothing to get me there, I’m exhausted by freaky one offs that feel designed for maximum online impact. It was, in the words of Sienna Miller’s nine-year-old daughter, who sat front row next to her mother, watching the show behind a pair of almond-eye sunglasses, “Just fabulous.”Ī viral runway or red carpet moment can be a blast. We’re tired of all this fantasy and Instagram clothes.” So they made a wardrobe? “Definitely,” said Hernandez. They designed in pieces- making “just clothes,” as McCollough put it-and then, working with their longtime stylist Camilla Nickerson, worked through how the women they admire would wear them. They thought about how those women dress. Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez, who are entering their second decade in business, said backstage that they didn’t do anything too wild to shake things up this season, though they did start in a different place, with headshots of women they admire, like Sevigny and Olympia Scarry, instead of sketching full looks. It was like, Here’s your wardrobe for next fall-done, solved! The runways were narrow, so you could see these great clothes up close. Then came more great clothes: a black suit with a very fluid carrot leg a v-neck black dress with a sliced skirt revealing strands of bonking white pom poms a couple perfect double-breasted camel and blonde coats sequin knits twisted beneath the arm to give a gentle shape to the waist. The show opened with longtime Proenza pal Chloë Sevigny, wearing a black blazer cinched at the waist with a thin leather belt with a silver oval at the back, over a boxy leather wrap skirt. That might sound silly-aren’t clothes what this business is all about?-but their blazers, knit dresses, and sequin knits at Proenza Schouler’s Saturday morning show felt like a joyous relief in an era saturated with pieces that seem more like clickbait than strong, wearable, intelligent clothes. The first big story to emerge out of New York Fashion Week, which began on Friday, is something so straightforward it might sound nuts: designers are making clothes for the real world.
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